History of Women's Costume

Although I am studying hair and makeup, I think it is equally important to research into the costumes of the era as I sometimes get my makeup inspiration through fashion. It is interesting to see what the Victorians wore and the similarities they have between the characters we see in the Great Expectation films. Miss Havisham is seen in the wedding dress she wore when she got jilted at the alter and it is fascinating to research into how they looked and what they were made from. This will hopefully give me encouragement and ideas into creating my own Miss Havisham. 

Costume Reference: History of Women's Costume - Marion Sichel

(Pages 42 - 57)

In the early years of the nineteenth century the simple classical trends of previous years continued. The higher waistlines were at their highest about 1805 and the semi-transparent materials used for the dresses revealed the pantaloons worn beneath. Day and evening wear was very similar, the only exception being that for evening attire the dressed were more elaborate.

Daywear

The classical sales or, as they were also known, The Empire Line, had low decolletages (the upper part of a women's torso) and either long or short sleeves. The ornamentation was Egyptian, Etruscan and even Gothic. These fashions were suited particularly to the younger generation as their charm depended much on the physique of the wearer. The Victorian Gothic styles on the other hand, was more adaptable to all ages, concealing physical imprecations by adding dignity to the matron. 

Evening and formal wear

In the early part of the nineteenth century evening gowns had trained skirts open in front, revealing the lavishly embellished petticoats. Long sleeves reached just over the hands, but short sleeves were often seen. Tunic dresses were also very popular. 

Wedding dresses

The styles of wedding dresses were very similar to day dresses, but they were made of white satin or silk with a lace decoration. The bodies were usually high necked, but if low, were always filled in with a chemisette. Veils usually covered their face and orange blossom wreaths were also worn. 

Image and Information from: http://www.theweddingsecret.co.uk/
magazine/celebrity-weddings-the-significance
-of-royal-wedding-dresses/1855 photograph of Princess Beatrice,
the daughter of Queen Victoria

Image fromhttp://www.devilinspired.co.uk/1488-5435-home/
black-and-white-lace-long-sleeves-gothic-wedding-dress.jpg
Contemporary Victorian Gothic
Wedding Dress

Above are the two photographs of the nineteenth century wedding dress and the contemporary victorian wedding dress. The sweetheart neckline and fitted bodice design are just a few examples of the many factors that make the two similar. You can even purchase the Gothic dress online for £249!! Gothic dress available at:http://www.devilinspired.co.uk/bridal/1488-black-and-white-lace-long-sleeves-gothic-wedding-dress.html

Mourning costume

Black was the usual colour for mourning, although dark brown was usually seen. Black veils were worn over headwear and gloves and even handkerchiefs were black, although a little white would have been worn. 

Informal and sports wear
A dress specially designed for walking appeared at the beginning of the century. This was untrained and the hem was edged with small tucks, later flounced or scalloped, ending just above the ground.




Hairstyles and Makeup
(Pages 55 - 56)

Hairstyles
Most new hairstyles originated in France. There were variations with the back hair hanging in ringlets as well as short curled hair. Classical Grecian and Roman style were also seen early in the century. The classical styles and short Titus hairstyles were gradually replaced by longer and softer hair fashions. Small curls were seen at the forehead and sides, and the hair at the back would be plaited into a large top knot, which by the 1820's was arranged with loops and bows held up with wire and frames! It would then be decorated with feathers, ribbons, flowers and jewellery. False hair was also added, curls and ringlets at the sides being very popular.

Sleeker hair was popular in the 1840's, the hair lying flat from a centre parting and pulled into a bun at the back with an ivory comb. By the 1850's the side hair was slightly puffed out and a chignon worn at the back. This was fashionable, becoming fuller and held in place with a net. In the 1870's small fringes were seen and the chignons began to decrease in popularity and if they were worn they were much higher on the head.
A new method of waving the hair with heated tongs was invented by a Parisian hairdresser, Marcel Grateau. This become fashionable in 1870, influenced by Lily Langtry (a british actress and socialite, known for her beauty) who had her hair waved and wore a chignon low at the back. As she had blond hair this became a fashionable colour and many ladies dyed their hair!
Lily Langtry Information from: http://timessquare.lilliesnyc.com/?page_id=10



Makeup
Plumper's were still in use at the beginning of the nineteenth century, but this fashion died out. Instead rouge was very fashionable, but became less popular in the 1830's when the mode was to be pale looking, pearl powder being used to achieve this effect.
During Queen Victoria's reign, makeup was regarded as improper, and it was not until Edward VII became King in 1901 that a little face powder and a modest amount of make-up was permitted.